‘Every Cook Should Study At This Spot’: Unassuming Turkish Restaurant Earns Fourth on Ranking of London’s Leading Restaurants.
When assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.
A Shocking Accolade
This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This honour has left the owners completely astonished.
“I am utterly astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small place earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.
The Appeal of Modesty
This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.
A Namesake Offering: Tantuni
Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender consistency.
It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.
It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.
Other Than the Basic Tantuni
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.
Rising Above the Stars
Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.
The Creed of Warmth
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.
“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.
The Journey of Dedication
In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.
Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.
A Accomplishment for the Culture
This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.